Today I want to present you one of the wonders of Italy, Palmaria island, Unesco heritage together with the nearby islands of Tino and Tinetto, since 1997. A magical place located in the Ligurian Sea, a real paradise on earth enclosed in an island of less than 2 square km.
Coming from Porto Venere you will find yourself in front of the north side of the island, that is the most inhabited, here the coasts degrade towards the sea and thus allow you to enjoy the water of the fantastic Ligurian sea, while on the other side of the island, for the more adventurous and nature lovers we can find impressive cliffs overlooking the sea, which over the years have created the fantastic Blue Grotto.
If you want to visit this wonder it is visible directly from the sea through the use of boats, you will surely be struck by the color of the water which, thanks to the walls of the cave, takes a spectacular gradation. A curiosity that makes this cave unique is the presence of a turtle-shaped stalactite.
However, I can’t forget to mention the most adventurous Grotta dei Colombi, reachable only by descending with ropes. According to legend, the island is a real miracle generated by Father Lucerna who was adopted and hated by his brothers because he was much more intelligent than them, he created a hook and after a short time he extracted the wonderful island Palmaria directly from the seabed.
This place is not only an enchantment for the eyes but also for the Italian history. The perfect destination not only for a fantastic relaxing trip on its beaches and adventurous walks but also to immerse yourself in the past of our country. The island is in fact in part a former military territory. Particularly fascinating is the presence of countless military bunkers dating back to World War II, without forgetting the now abandoned black marble quarry.
After hearing the wonders that this island brings with it, we only need to understand how to discover it!
Trails
The island offers a series of paths to be followed both with the help of guided excursions, for inexperienced travelers, on on your own for those used to unguided tours, or perhaps to enjoy the calm that the fauna of this paradise is able to offer.
Reached the island thanks to a ferry boat we can, starting from port Terrizzo, find several paths including the panoramic one which is sometimes classified as difficult but which with a minimum of training and good will will give you back great satisfactions.
This path is the most complete and certainly the one I recommend. Don’t worry, the entire route is equipped with many signs, you will not certainly get lost!
The advice is to proceed along the path in a clockwise direction so that you can follow a gradual change in the climb.
Fear not! In case you feel too tired halfway there is the possibility to go back thanks to a paved road and regenerate yourself in one of the two bars/restaurants on the island right in Terrizzo.
Once you reach Pozzale beach you can also return to the port through the other docking point on the island. However, the whole island can be covered in less than three hours, so as to make the route manageable even for those less suited to long walks, it is certainly an unmissable experience!
But what will you see during your walk?
The first part, as well as the simplest, offers the magnificent view of the gulf, from La Spezia to Versilia up to the Tuscan archipelago. Furthermore, if you are lucky enough to visit the island on a beautiful clear and sunny day, you can even see Corsica.
At the beginning of your walk you will find yourself in front of a crossroads where turning to the left you can observe the armored tower Umberto I, which can be visited during the weekends in summertime, or go straight. Continuing with the route you will find a detour on the right that will lead you to a panoramic point.
Then you will reach the famous Gabbiani beach, farther on there is Pozzale in the southern part of the island where you will be placed in front of the view of the now adandoned quarry of Portoro, a precious black marble with golden streaks.
And here we are finally at the most difficult part of our journey, the one that will really leave you speechless giving your gaze a picture of unique colors and your heart a moment of pure peace and encounter with nature itself. Let me tell you, it is really worth going through this more complex part. Here you will find countless historic buildings: from the fort Conte di Cavour to the Experimental battery.
The path becomes overhanging the sea, I just let you imagine the magic of this place. You will then reach the Torretta the highest part of the island, and then descend and return, perhaps tired and hungry but with a brand new emotion in your heart.
At this point, do you want to tell me that you don’t want to go for a dip in the splendid waters of Liguria?
Beaches
Let’s now see which beaches this beautiful island offers!
If you have a limited budget or prefer free beaches, you can visit Punto Secca beach, easily accessible as it is very close to the docking point from Porto Venere. Here the beach is free of sand and there are pebbles and gravel, as indeed on the whole island. However, a fantastic view of Porto Venere is guaranteed!
If you are more of an umbrella type, know that you can be satisfied in this case too, near the free beach you can find the Il Gabbiano bathing establishment. Here there will be the possibility to rent sunbeds, umbrellas and deck chairs as well as the presence of a bar, a restaurant and a delicious ice cream shop. The beach also offers a shower service.
If you prefer a slightly less frequented place surrounded by nature on the other side of the island, you can find the beach of the seagulls accessible by boat or by a tortuous path. The water here is just as clear as in the north of the island, the beach is enclosed by a thick pine forest and the sweet sound of seagulls will accompany your stay in this place.
On the opposite side of Porto Venere there is Pozzale beach, it is certainly not a place for everyone but certainly the perfect place for those who love peace and quiet and are not afraid of abandoning their comfort. It can also be reached in summertime by sea while for the paths, as for the beach of the seagulls, expect a difficult walk. Seagulls and goats are the masters here.
In summary, you took a nice walk and you even swam in the crystal clear waters pampered by the sound of the waves and the sound of seagulls, but don’t you feel a slight hunger?
Restaurants
Our island, unfortunately or perhaps fortunately, is really small and offers few but interesting places to eat, one is precisely the restaurant on the Il Gabbiano beach that I mentioned above.
Choosing this place you will find yourself in a sea view location with typical Ligurian dishes and a cuisine mainly based on fresh fish. The restaurant offers a mooring for boats up to 6 meters in case you own a boat or want to rent one in Porto Venere.
If this is not enough for you and you want a more romantic place, here is the Locanda Lorena which even offers a free taxi-boat service from Porto Venere, certainly a nice experience! We must consider that the prices are slightly higher than the other restaurants on the island and are around 50-100 euros per person. The restaurant also offers a room service for the night with breakfast included which can be booked from the site. Prices are around €130 and €150 per night based on the period.
Lastly, how could a restaurant with a terrace overlooking the sea be missing? The Pozzale offers a place of typical Ligurian cuisine with fish, reachable also this place almost only by taxi-boat service or through a more complex path on foot, but as we know a good walk does nothing but stimulate the appetite!
Remember, of course, if you are interested in these restaurants to book early as, especially in the summer, they are very crowded. You don’t want to find yourself with an empty stomach, do you?
Well I think this is all, isn’t it? Wait, do you want to know how to get to this beautiful paradise?
Where to sleep
There is only one hotel (more a guest house actually) on Palmaria Island: the Locanda Lorena. The rooms are simple but furnished with all comforts: wifi, flat screen TV, air conditioning, private bathroom and some have a splendid sea view.
As a guest of the inn you have a discounted price on the parking for your car in Portovenere, and then you can reach the island by boat. From Thursday to Tuesday there is a free boat service.
See here on Booking.com prices and availability of Locanda Lorena
But there are other hotels in Portovenere to choose from. Below the best hotels by price range. Since availability is limited, it is convenient to find the best value for money, book well in advance.
Luxury hotel
Among the luxury hotels, the Grand Hotel Portovenere stands out for its particularity and service at the highest levels.
Located in a 17th-century monastery on the Portovenere seafront, the Grand Hotel is certainly the best place for a romantic weekend for two. In addition to the various services, the hotel also offers personalized boat tours and in the restaurant you can taste the chef’s dishes based on fresh fish.
See here on Booking.com the prices and availability of Grand Hotel Portovenere
Hotel average prices
Even among the medium price hotels there is a wide choice. All these hotels are characterized by the cleanliness and comfort available to guests.
Hotel Belvedere: with panoramic views of the Gulf of La Spezia and the nearby island of Palmaria, Hotel Belvedere is certainly among the top choices, also given its splendid location. The rooms are air conditioned and have satellite TV, WiFi and some of them have sea view.See prices and availability of Hotel Belvedere
Residence le Terrazze: One of the our top picks in Portovenere, thanks to the private beach with sun beds and umbrellas and the view of the Gulf of Poets. It features an outdoor swimming pool and rooms and apartments with a balcony overlooking the sea. The structure is modern and the rooms are equipped with all comforts. See prices and availability of the Residence le Terrazze
Cheap hotels and holiday homes
If you are looking for an economic solution, the best choice certainly falls on some guest houses and holiday homes with excellent value for money.
Among these, it deserves special attention MARE & MONTI, which offers clean, large and equipped apartments with all comforts close to the center of Portovenere. The kitchen is equipped, wifi is free and from the terrace you can enjoy an exceptional panorama.
See here on Booking.com the prices and availability of MARE & MONTI
If from MARE & MONTI you should not find a place, there are other economic choices. The best ones include:
Appartamento Portovenere: 1 bedroom, a kitchen with oven and 1 bathroom with bidet, shower and washing machine. Flat screen TV with satellite channels and a terrace with exceptional views.See prices and availability of Appartamento Portovenere
Onde House: an apartment equipped with all comforts with an exceptional location and very high scores. The apartment consists of a sitting area, a bedroom and a bathroom. The breakfast is buffet style. See Onde House prices and availability
If among the choices I have given you have not found what is right for you, with the link below you can look at all the other hotels in Portovenere
Search for other HOTELS in PORTOVENERE
How to get there
The Boaters Cooperative Porto Venere offers a ferry service to the 3 main beaches departing from Molo Doria from 9.00 to 18.45 every 30 minutes approximately.
From 1st July to 31st August the time for the return is extended until 00.10 for the last embarkation towards Porto Venere. Obviously the service is carried out only in case of suitable weather conditions to give the greatest possible security.
Personally I do not recommend you to reach Porto Venere by car as it is very crowded, better to take a bus that will take you directly near the departure for the island .
You can also reach Palmaria Island by boat from La Spezia.